What is the correct height when using a Matterport Pro2?19850
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JimmyJim private msg quote post Address this user | |
| Hey everyone. I just recently saw a Matterport tour where they brought the pro2 camera really low to be able to get into a bathroom with a large mirror right at the door. They brought it down just below the bathroom counter out of view of the mirror. To my surprise, it looked quite good. Do others do this? Are there drawbacks to doing it? I generally have the height chin level (I'm 5'9) but I'm wondering if I should have it lower. What height do you generally use? Thanks. | ||
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HarlanHambright private msg quote post Address this user | |
| for residential work, I generally set the camera at just above 4 feet. This allows you to keep the viewer level when you're touring the space. Those real high, looking down, 3 point perspective tours annoy the hell out of me. The wide angle view exacerbates the effect. Most tours shown as demos are shot high and look down. It ain't natural and I'm agin' it. | ||
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ron0987 private msg quote post Address this user | |
| @JimmyJim I do not like the high perspective either, but will always check the upper cabinets in the kitchen. I absolutely hate to see the under side of the cabinet space in a tour and especially if they have lighting in that space. So I have no strict set height. | ||
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 WGANStandard Member Los Angeles |
Home3D private msg quote post Address this user | |
| We have a few rules of thumb in this regard. Average lens height on residential tours is about 4'6". The driving goal is for the lens height to be placed so that as the visit "looks straight ahead" when walking through, the room verticals, that is, the corners of rooms and all vertical 'up and down' edges, are parallel, not 'keystoned' at angles. This makes the best experience for a walkthrough. As human beings, there are many things we "see" but don't really see. For example, we walk through a home with a variety of lighting color temperatures emitted by fixtures, some 3200K, some 5000K or even "daylight" 6000K and we don't really notice the difference. But once photographed, these are locked into pixels of different colors that often clash with each other. Same true for rooms that have direct sun entering windows (6000K), rooms lit by 3200K incandescent bulbs and rooms lit by indirect daylight, reflecting the blue of the sky (closer to 8000K). In like manner, as humans we walk through a home and KNOW that all the walls are vertical, corners parallel, so we don't register that angular 'keystoning' occurs if we look down or look up. But capture this in a photo, and it looks, well, wrong. So in a typical home we set our cameras about 4'6". If a bath or kitchen or bar area has high counters, I'll raise that a bit to capture the countertop. If a living room has exceptionally low furniture or sofas, I'll lower it somewhat. If a home or room has exceptionally tall ceilings, I may raise it a bit. It's all about keeping the verticals parallel while showing what's in the room. Recently we scanned an 80,000 sf retail store for BIM. This is about gathering data, so we set the Pro 3 high enough to reach a bit over the racks of clothing, capturing data further away. This improves alignment and delivers more data to the client. If scanning the exterior of buildings, we may raise the Pro 3 to gather more data higher up the walls. At one location with an overhang, I raised the camera as high as possible on my tripod, legs fully extended, then balance the entire rig on top of a sturdy trash can to gather data above the overhang. (I also held onto it, hiding in the nadir) Bottom line, the "correct" lens height depends on the site location and purpose for the scan. |
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JimmyJim private msg quote post Address this user | |
| Fantastic info. Home3D. Thank you very much for taking the time to help! Jim |
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ron0987 private msg quote post Address this user | |
| @Home3D I agree with everything you pointed out but on large exterior projects I would run the camera at about the same height as inside to keep tour consistent, but then I will raise the camera to a greater height to reach high walls over hangs or building facade to get the best model possible but turn them off so when walking thru the tour exterior the viewer stays at consistent high. | ||
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HarlanHambright private msg quote post Address this user | |
| Re: height changes. I find that changes between scans (lighting conditions, time of day, height of scan, etc.) are not nearly as disconcerting as I thought they would be while viewing a tour. | ||
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 WGAN FanClub Member Buffalo, New York |
GETMYVR private msg quote post Address this user | |
| It's a good question. For most bedrooms, the living room and hallways I ahoot about chest level. Once I get in the bathroom I'm probably about 1 ft above the vanity. Also, when you do bathrooms it's good to do a second low shot right into the bathroom. For kitchens I bring it up a little bit higher, 5.5' because everybody wants to see the countertops. When I do 360 scans outside I bring it up about 5 ft. 5 to 6 ft. | ||
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