Video: Hard Hat Mounted 360 Camera with Capture from Matterport16563
Pages:
1
 WGAN ForumFounder & WGAN-TV Podcast Host Atlanta, Georgia |
DanSmigrod private msg quote post Address this user | |
| Video: Hard Hat Mounted 360 Camera with Capture from Matterport | Video courtesy of Mark Carroll YouTube Channel | 10 March 2022 Hi All, While this is a "step" in the right direction, the Matterport Capture app needs a feature to automate snapping 360s (either video or individual images). WGAN Forum Related Discussions ✓ How to Make a 360º Camera Helmet Cam ✓ Helmet Cam for Google Street View: Helmet + Adhesive Mount + Ricoh Theta V ✓ Google Trusted Badge and Theta V on a helmet Your thoughts? Dan Transcript (video above) [00:00:00] Mark Carroll: This short video will detail a way to use Matterport Capture app using a 360 camera mounted to a hardhat. This answers the question, is Matterport able to capture in that same workflow using a mounted camera? This is a short video to detail that. There are different types of hardhats in industry, any hardhat will do as long as the camera could be mounted in a steady position that doesn't bounce around, so you would need to have some attachment to clip in the 360 camera, so if it's a hardhat like this, the standard hardhat or a soft brim hat with a hard interior, I've gone ahead and mounted one unit on a different hardhat. The first thing you want to do with the hardhat is make sure that you remove any accessories or things that might get in the way of the mounted camera, things like this mounted headlamp. In this example, I'm going to use a Ricoh Theta V handheld 360 camera that I mounted to off the shelf Velcro material that I mounted at the top of this hardhat. Then I put it in a longer strip so I could position it just right as I need to when I'm in the field. The key is that this device has to be high enough off the user's head where accessories like this headlamp or the brim of the hardhat are not as much in the screen. You don't want to have the hardhat itself obscure the view when capturing. [00:02:10] Mark Carroll: There are some considerations to keep in mind when capturing with this kind of a setup. The first is the height of the camera off of the floor. For the most part, in most use cases, this isn't a big deal, but as I walk next to a Pro2 camera, for the most part, this is a pretty high height for a Pro2 camera. I'm sitting at about 6'2''. Usually you will capture the Pro2 camera at the same height as a user in the field. You can see the device on my head is far higher so much that it's about this height difference. For most use cases, this height perspective from here to here is not as big of a problem, but that's something to consider for your output for the end-user. I'll turn on the device now. I started at the camera and now I'll connect to this device. I'm turning on the Wi-Fi. Make sure to have Wi-Fi blinking first. I'm connecting the device there it is, Theta password. Underside, I have to unscrew the mount to get to the password. The underside, it looks a serial number. There are two letters. Disregard those two first letters, but use all the numbers that are listed behind it. That's the password on the Wi-Fi to connect to this device. I have a double zero to start. [00:03:52] Mark Carroll: Now this camera is connecting to this iPad over Wi-Fi. I'm moving over to the Matterport Capture App. Put back the amount on this, camera setting, Wi-Fi on, connected to the iPad. Capturing with this setup is just like this in the setup, but you are the tripod. Instead of placing the tripod down and leaving it still, you have to keep it still. I'm going to put this over to the side. I'm going to take my first position. [00:04:30] Mark Carroll: Here we go. I'm holding still, making sure that my head doesn't tilt at all. Just make sure that you're steady, so it's beaming the information from the camera to my iPad. [00:04:50] Mark Carroll: There you go. I'm going to take a couple of steps closer to the camera. I can't go too far because I get this cord, should get wireless. I'll just do it this close. Remember, I'm going to keep my head steady and still. I'm not giving you a middle finger and I'm just trying to hit it. [00:05:15] Mark Carroll: Take a few steps over here. [00:05:20] Mark Carroll: Head up, keep it level. Don't sway around. Don't move around. Don't talk. Hold your breath. I got that second position, landed. Hold my breath. I'll keep doing this for a bit and you'll see what I get. [00:07:05] Mark Carroll: You can see though in the model that it has the brim of my hardhat in it in the 3D data. That's because the camera was not as high as it could, but aligned. That means that the data did not keep it from aligning. You can see part of the hardhat in the position, but it's aligning and that's aligning because of the 3D data from the ceiling. It actually works very well, very quickly. Got to make sure you keep your head steady. You don't have your heads sway around when you have your hardhat on, makes sure that it's on strong. I dropped this just before this and the camera seems okay. This is a Theta V and I found this carpeted here. But I can tell you right now that I have a Theta Z1 that fell to the cement and it wasn't on the hardhat, it was actually on a tripod like this, and it toppled over and this lens hit cement. This device is essentially useless for this purpose. It's heavy, so the idea of mounting it in a way that will not fall off your hardhat. I was just doing it just now and my hardhat mount fell off because the Velcro is not strong enough. I would attach a permanent bolt of some kind. But you also can't put holes in your hardhat. Mounting it in a way with a permanent adhesive rather than a Velcro, might be a more appropriate way to have this device mounted for day-to-day usage. In summary, the setup does work quite well, but the things to keep in mind are I would recommend attaching this in a more permanent way so the hardhat does not lose the camera mount when you're moving around the field, because these devices will break if they fall from a high enough position to the ground in a construction site. Keeping in mind that when you capture, you are doing this just like you're using a tripod, like this. You are that tripod, so you need to keep steady, capture that quick snapshot, and then move to that next position, I would say three to four paces is a good first distance away steps from the first position and that will allow there to be enough overlap. Don't go too far away, but I think at first a few steps away, and then as you start to capture and get more information from that space, you're able to extend your positions from paces, from steps per position. I would also always make sure to monitor your Capture App to make sure those positions are landing in the right position. That's the most important thing to have a reliable results is to make sure that the positions that you're capturing are landing properly on the Capture App. Let me know if you've any questions and you can feel free to put them in the comments below. |
||
| Post 1 • IP flag post | ||
|
Expertise private msg quote post Address this user | |
| Imbeciles. The camera will be over 6 feet in the air, the time savings will be negligible. Maybe this is an early April Fool's thing. |
||
| Post 2 • IP flag post | ||
Pages:
1This topic is archived. Start new topic?